KoreanKuriya Suizan (厨 水山)
Hello,
This post is a review of Kuriya Suizan (厨 水山), a ryokan located in the hot spring town of Jozankei (定山渓), Hokkaido.
We drove from New Chitose Airport by rental car, heading into Jozankei from there.
The reservation was made through Rakuten Travel, and we applied a 20% discount via a Rakuten Mastercard World campaign — the total came to US$665.88 for 4 adults, 1 night including kaiseki dinner and breakfast (February 2026).
New Chitose → Jozankei by Rental Car
We picked up a rental car at New Chitose Airport and drove about an hour to Jozankei.
Hokkaido roads are wide and well-paved, making for a comfortable drive overall.
That said, we accidentally turned onto a mountain road at some point, which made things a bit more adventurous than expected.
Arrival & Lobby
We arrived after dark, and the sight of the snow-piled roof lit up at night was already pretty striking.
The lobby features a large, rough-hewn stone pillar at its center — an unusual detail that immediately sets a different tone from a regular hotel.
One wall of the lobby is lined with ceramic dishes displayed under individual spotlights.
Apparently these aren’t just for show — they’re the actual vessels used during the kaiseki dinner.
They’re available for purchase, though the prices are something else.
Check-in & Welcome Food
Upon check-in, we were served a small welcome dish — crab and seafood prepared in a light appetizer style.
From the very first bite, the freshness of Hokkaido ingredients came through clearly.
Room
The room was a classic Japanese-style setup: tatami flooring with a kotatsu table in the center.
At 36㎡, it was comfortably spacious for four people.
The room we booked didn’t have a private shower, so we used the shower facilities at the outdoor bath.
In the evening, staff come in and lay out the futons for you.
The bedding was thick and warm — a comfortable night’s sleep.
Looking out the window at the snow-laden trees, I felt like that view alone was worth the trip.
2nd Floor Lounge
After settling in, we headed up to the second-floor lounge.
The lounge is an elegant space furnished with vintage speakers and ceramic artwork.
The menu rotates throughout the day, with different food and drink offerings depending on the time.
During the afternoon, matcha yokan, cakes, and orange juice were available.
It looked like alcohol was also on offer during the evening hours.
Kaiseki Dinner
In the evening, the kaiseki dinner course begins at the first-floor restaurant.
With an open kitchen layout, you can watch the chef at work — and the lighting and interior design made for a genuinely pleasant dining atmosphere.
The February menu runs the full kaiseki gamut: vegetable and seafood amuse-bouche, sashimi, tempura, a grilled main, Hokkaido rice, and dessert — all spanning about two hours.
Honestly, it went on long enough that I was full well before the end, but I suppose that’s a sign of how substantial the course was.
Sashimi platter featuring seasonal Hokkaido seafood.
Tempura course served with a delicate dipping sauce.
Hokkaido vegetables prepared in a creamy style.
Grilled and broth course.
The main: Hokkaido duck, plated with red wine sauce and beet sauce — the presentation alone was something.
A dessert called “Snowy Mountain.”
A small pudding to close out the meal.
Everything was genuinely delicious — though the two-hour sitting left me feeling like I’d eaten for a small army.
Outdoor Bath at Kuriya Suizan
This is the ryokan’s own outdoor bath, taken after breakfast.
Soaking in hot spring water while snow falls around you is the kind of experience that’s hard to put into words.
Using the Suizantei Sister Bath
Kuriya Suizan operates a sister-inn arrangement with nearby ryokans including Suizantei (水山亭), allowing guests to use their baths as well.
We walked through the snowy path at night to reach Suizantei and enjoyed their outdoor bath too.
Breakfast Kaiseki
By morning, the dining room looks out onto a white expanse of snow.
Several types of juice — orange, tomato, yuzu — are already set out on the table when you arrive.
The highlight of breakfast was the DIY miso soup station — you dissolve the miso paste yourself in an iron pot on a small burner, then add tofu or whatever else you like.
Simple, but somehow much more satisfying than just being handed a bowl.
The main breakfast tray follows a classic Japanese morning spread: steamed rice, sashimi, pickled vegetables, and small sides.
Just like dinner the night before, every ingredient felt distinctly Hokkaido.
Wrap-Up
Jozankei is a hot spring town about an hour from Sapporo by car — a good spot to slow down for a night during a Hokkaido trip.
Kuriya Suizan stood out for the quality of its kaiseki meals and the sister-inn bath arrangement, and visiting in February meant the snow and hot springs worked together in the best possible way.
Thank you for reading.
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